When planting trees, the first thing you need to take into consideration before selecting a location may be the mature height and spread of the tree. If you may be tempted by all of the different species that are offered, take care to choose carefully, especially if you have an average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.
It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting an adult tree is difficult and may be expensive if done professionally. It may well justify the trouble, however, in case a mature tree is badly needed for a terrace or for screening. What you are paying or may be the time it takes an inferior tree to mature.
The optimum time to transplant a tree is in the early spring or late fall. It is possible to plant trees in full leaf using wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss before roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in early spring.
When planting a tree over 6 feet in height, it'll suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.
Because the root system needs fertile soil when it's planted, special steps should be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider than the full spread of the roots in each direction. The bottom should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly mixed with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.
Manure can be used sparingly and should only be spread at the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the higher for your tree. Once planted, you can cultivate around it but not under the roots. If you hit a layer of creating debris or clay, that is never uncommon near a house, you need to remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or on top of that, garden humus.
When you are planting a bare root seedling, you will need to protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it may be kept before planting so long as it is dormant.
This means laying it on its side at an angle to the ground and covering the roots with good soil. If you are ready to take it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from exposure to air before planting and in addition from any air pockets which may exist round the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to settle the soil in the bottom; when it has drained away, place the tree in the position in which it really is to grow and complete the soil around it.
Work the soil round the roots using a stick or shovel handle, and be sure there are no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at around the same depth as its former location. Once the hole is two-thirds, of the way full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Complete Click here for more info of the soil without tramping it down, so the water will drain towards the trunk.
A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one which has been dug with a good ball of soil where it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held in place by way of a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.
If the bottom is dry, fill the hole with water and allow it soak in before planting. Slice the burlap at the very top when you put the tree set up, and roll it back several inches. You'll plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.
Following the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the first year, the more cultivation around the tree the higher, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall can help keep carefully the moisture in the bottom.